“It’s that easy.” Chef Marco Pierre White's words echoed as the gathered onlookers collectively wondered why they had never thought of grating, rather than chopping, an onion before.
White was demonstrating his signature saffron risotto recipe in the Cookery Club, a purpose-built kitchen studio at sea aboard P&O Cruises’ Britannia.
The 3,647-capacity cruise ship was in the early days of a 14-night Canary Islands itinerary, calling at four of the sun-kissed islands in addition to Madeira, Cádiz, and Lisbon.
Such mainstream summer cruises are often perceived as catering to budget family vacationers with dining someway down the list of priorities.
While Britannia’s vast buffet restaurant and poolside grill cater well to families, six sea days allowed ample time to explore the ship’s premium dining options and cookery-based entertainment, while seven port calls offered chances to discover authentic local cuisine ashore.
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Improvements In Cruise Ship Dining
Mainstream cruise ship dining often suffers from a reputation of mediocrity. However, the tide is turning as many cruise lines now leverage food and beverages as a way to distinguish themselves in this supremely competitive market.
Italian line MSC Cruises leans heavily into its Mediterranean roots offering fresh mozzarella and pizza slices almost around the clock, while Cunard’s new Queen Anne offers more specialty restaurants than ever before on the historic line.
Teaching Guests
Meanwhile, other cruise lines link up with world-renowned chefs to develop their offering. Over the past 18 years, renowned British chef and restaurateur Marco Pierre White has worked with P&O Cruises.
He is one of several ‘Food Heroes’ engaged by the line to help develop their onboard food and beverage concepts, specific menus, and entertain guests with cooking classes and demonstrations.
Because of the unique challenges of cooking at sea, he said simplicity is what matters most in the cruise world today: “The more you add to food, the more you risk taking away from it.”
That’s why White chose to demonstrate a risotto. It’s an impressive dish yet relatively simple to make. It also allows White to teach some key cooking techniques: “Whether they recreate the dish later or simply take away some skills to use in other dishes, I want guests to be able to use their vacation memories once they’ve left the ship.”
Dining In Diverse Venues
Simplicity might matter most on the plate, but White also highlighted the importance of the venue: “If you don't feel comfortable in the environment, you won't enjoy the food no matter the quality.”
He believes the trend towards bigger ships has helped to foster a diversity in onboard restaurant experiences: “Bigger ships allow more dining venues, which suit different tastes.”
The Britannia cruise ship offered main dining rooms, a vast buffet restaurant, and a basic poolside grill and pizzeria all included in the cruise fare. Although many people chose to eat in the inclusive venues every day, the ship’s specialty dining venues proved critical in keeping things interesting for a full two-week vacation.
Presentation took center stage at Epicurean, an elegant fine dining venue featuring a surprise avocado and chili gazpacho, giant tiger prawns, indulgent crêpes suzette, and a thoughtful wine list.
Meanwhile, the best of British Indian cuisine was served in the elegant surroundings of Sindhu, a favorite spot of White's. The dark color scheme and diffused lighting create an ambiance reminiscent of candlelight, which he described as "the most romantic setting for a meal."
Britain Meets Portugal In Madeira
As conversation turned to traditional British food, White suggested a surprising “must do” in the first port of call, Madeira: afternoon tea at Reid’s Palace, an iconic hotel perched on a cliff with breathtaking ocean views of the Atlantic Ocean.
Introduced more than 100 years ago to cater to the tastes of its mostly British clientele, Reid’s indulgent afternoon tea remains one of the world’s most popular afternoon teas outside of the British Isles.
Sadly, such popularity meant the "sold out" sign had been in place for some time, perhaps unsurprising given the arrival of thousands of British guests on Britannia. However, Madeira offered plenty of fine alternatives.
The bustling cafes and eateries on the streets of Funchal served up espetada—beef skewers marinated with garlic, salt, and bay leaves, then cooked over an open fire—and bolo do caco—a traditional Madeiran sweet potato bread served with garlic butter, followed up with a glass of sweet, rich Madeira wine.
Unique Volcanic Wines
Wine also took center stage in the Canary Islands, most notably the unique vineyards amid the volcanic landscapes of Lanzarote.
The island's vineyards are planted in black, porous volcanic soil, which retains moisture and provides natural insulation. Each vine grows in a small, circular pit, protected by stone walls to shield them from strong, hot winds.
These wines are celebrated for their vibrant acidity, complex flavors, and distinctive minerality, but the low yields mean that exports are minimal so trying the wines in Lanzarote is a must. Tastings and wine tours at Bodega La Geria are popular thanks to its location close to the national park visitor center.
The wine adventure continued in Tenerife, where volcanic soils, varied topographies, diverse microclimates, and beneficial trade winds enable extensive wine production and diverse styles.
On the temperate northern side on Tenerife, the atmospheric tasting room of Bodegas Alvero can host a few hundred people at once.
Guests enjoyed typical Canarian tapas, such as aged manchego and papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) with mojo pepper sauces, paired with a dry white, deep red, fresh cava, and rich, fortified dessert wine.
Tapas Tasting Continued On Board
The tapas concept continued back on board for the sail back to Britain. Another of P&O Cruises’ ‘Food Heroes’, Spanish chef José Pizarro, has developed a menu of tasty dishes for the Glass House atrium venue that combines wine bar with stylish eatery.
With simplicity at the forefront once again, seared Atlantic scallops, mild Gordal olives stuffed with orange, and Andalusian potato omelette starred. The always available offer of any three tapas for £10.50 ($13.50) was a value way to enjoy a grazing lunch or an alternative starter.
Canary Islands cruises are family-friendly and budget-friendly ways to enjoy a summer vacation. However, to get the full premium dining experience, you’ll have to spend more than the base fare.
The same 14-night itinerary including a guest appearance from Marco Pierre White is available on Britannia in October 2024. Fares start from £1,229 ($1,570) per person, based on two people sharing, or from £1,599 ($2,050) for a balcony cabin.
Prices include dining in the main dining rooms and buffet restaurant. To enjoy some of the enhanced dining experiences, factor in between $15-$60 per restaurant, and up to $150 for an experience in the Cookery Club. Food and wine-based shore excursions run $60-$120.
